As with wine, the terroir is also decisive for the potato. But this is easier said than done. Glaciers and rivers were responsible for the alpine alluvial soil in the Albula Valley. This is the soil for the mountain potatoes from the Albula Valley. A soil of stones and light, sandy earth. The perfect basis, because the stones store the heat and when it rains, the moisture does not accumulate in the soil. The purposefully cultivated agroforestry, a combination of trees and arable crops on a common terroir, supports the diverse interactions of this community. The microorganisms that develop in the form of symbiotic fungi already support the terroir today and will become increasingly important in the event of more extreme weather conditions due to the changing climate, as they are resistant and bring continuity to the soil.

Back to the potato, the potato plants are in full bloom during our recent visit to the Las Sorts organic farm. Marcel Heinrich Tschalèr (organic mountain farmer and patient pioneer) and Freddy Christandl (cook and potato enthusiast) explain the work and considerations behind the 30 or so varieties of mountain potatoes. During the potato blossom, when the first growth phase between sun, frost and rain is over, the daily inspection rounds through the potato rows begin. In addition to a skilled eye and a certain intuition, the growth is observed. Sick plants must be recognized immediately, as this is the only way to expect a successful harvest in organic farming. In late summer, the yield from the various phases of the work comes to light. Some of the harvesting is done by hand, due to the soil conditions and the peculiarities of the potato, which are shaped by nature and do not conform to commercial standards. Up to 60 tons of potatoes in around 30 unique varieties are harvested. Pure diversity.

The potato is also anything but standard when it comes to its inner values. Compared to potatoes doped with nitrogen, mountain potatoes are characterized by their original properties. The potatoes grow slowly and evenly in the alpine terroir. The starch can ripen, the cell walls do not tear and the aromas can develop freely. The proof is in the preparation. The cooking time for mountain potatoes is up to twice as long, and the amount of liquid required for mashed potatoes, for example, is four to six times as high.

And then there’s the taste experience, which we better not talk too much about. Either buy it yourself at the Las Sorts organic farm and try it out or enjoy it freshly prepared in the atelier VERT (and in winter also in the Cheese Factory) at the AlpenGold Hotel in Davos. Speaking of the Las Sorts organic farm, living and working at an altitude of 1000 meters is demanding. Sabina and Marcel Heinrich Tschalèr run the mountain farm, they have three daughters, train apprentices every year and work together with hard-working helpers and employees. They are joined by companions from nature, the environment and research, selected partners in sales and personal friends in the culinary world. This is what Marcel Heinrich Tschalèr and Freddy Christandl stand for; “Not only their potatoes, but also all the people involved from the field to the plate should be well!”

Much more can be found at Bergkartoffeln.ch